Each Culinary Artist Ought to Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.

Charles Miller
Charles Miller

A tech journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and consumer electronics.